blog

God’s palette of warm yellow, gold, and white sunrise awoke the mountain horizon. I could not tear my eyes as sunlight peeked over the peaks. As mesmerizing as this was at an elevation of one thousand three hundred meters (four thousand two hundred feet), the floating mountains compelled a long hard gaze. Spring was erupting here in such soothing, emerald greens. The guidebooks for the Camino claim that O’Cebreiro is distinctly similar to Celtic lands of Ireland and Scotland; if so, both own a piece of heaven on Earth.

Two peaks bookend fifty kilometers (roughly thirty miles) of this stage of The Way. The magnificent Templar Castle in Ponferrada sits at five hundred forty meters (one thousand seven hundred seventy feet). A mercifully gentle, level grade follows as the trail weaves westward through the delightful ancient city of Villafranca de Bierzo.

One would think walking downhill would be easier on the body, the legs, and be less strenuous. Not true.  From Cruz de Ferro, at an elevation higher than the Pyrenees, to the town of Molinaseca there is a brutal nine hundred meter (just under three thousand feet) descent over twenty kilometers (roughly twelve and a half miles).    Many stretches have a grade of six percent.  In other places, the trail hugs the hillside with a sheer drop off with hundreds of kilometers (feet) below.

The historical origin of this “not-to-be-missed” spot on the Camino adds to the fascination of this shrine. The focal point: a wooden pole standing roughly seven meters (twenty plus feet) high, anchored in an impressive mound of small stones of about half its height.  Affixed atop is a Christian cross made of iron.  It is unique in its raw simplicity, and at the same time its origin is claimed by many faiths.

It is not unusual to find trailside vendors selling light snacks and fruits to exhausted pilgrims. For several years now, one noteworthy vendor has gained great attention, and for good reason. David, a young man in his early thirties, completed the Camino himself and afterwards determined to give his life in service for pilgrims along The Way.

It was July 10, 1434 when noble knight Don Suero took up the challenge to defend his honor in the ancient town of Hospital de Òrbigo. After being rejected by a fair maiden, he challenged to joust any knight daring to pass him across the famed arched bridge, now a 13th century Roman artifact that crosses the River Òrbigo. To restore his honor to the fair maiden, Don Suero needed to defeat every knight’s attempt to cross the river for a month, as well as win at least three hundred lances. Knights all across Europe took up the challenge. Knight after knight met their doom under Suero’s brave determination and jousting expertise. He collected the quota of lances and was celebrated for regaining his honor.

Leòn has bragging rights to the ancient Roman wall. This city’s name is a derived from a hybrid of Rome’s legions who were encamped here in addition to the Spanish word for lion. The spider web of short, disconnected streets meet at the town’s central, stunning structure, Cathedral of Leòn, also known as “House of Light.” It is a jaw-dropping, stop-you-in-your-tracks, inspiring French-Gothic architectural wonder dating back to the early 1300’s. Situated in the center of a large town square with broad expanses of open sidewalks, its spires and columns stretch thirty meters (one hundred feet) and covers a thousand eight hundred square meters (roughly nineteen thousand three hundred square feet). The sheer size causes one to crane their neck painfully.

We are all pilgrims.
That’s what I like to believe, that each of us is on a journey to a holy place.

For me, part of that journey took me across mountains to Santiago on the famed Camino de Santiago. But more than the miles I walked, it was the lessons in faith along the way that shaped me.

I had the opportunity to meet my treasured friend, “Tom” and he share his insight on the Camino. I have divided the conversation into two parts because if I had his whole conversation into one blog, it would not do the Tom’s advice justice. So this is part one and part two will drop on Friday.

The Meseta, Spanish for “Tablelands” was welcomed by some pilgrims and bypassed by others. The Meseta was a long, flat, and monotonous 133 mile section of the Camino. The scenery was not exciting either. I saw only wheat, barley, and shepherd’s fields.
Yet, I loved the walk. I had little fear of the elevation changes that would trip me or the many places where I would easily stumble over rocks on the trail like the hills and mountains typically had. The Meseta gave me a relatively safe, level to undulating trail, most of the time. Walking the Meseta was a time for me to keep my head in the heavens in prayer without worrying so much about foot placement around stones for miles and miles.
One particularly delightful stay along the Meseta was at Carrion de los Condes where the “singing nuns” ran their Albergue. These ladies exuded their core of peace and love in the way they welcomed everyone. Soon, the good sisters had every pilgrim smiling, singing, and feeling united as a pilgrim family. What a joy-filled boost this was!